The Alban Trail

Distance:	9 miles (15km)
Rating:	A long walk with some stiles and steps. Paths can be wet and muddy; appropriate footwear will be needed.
Starting points:	All Saints Pastoral Centre, Shenley Lane, London Colney
Refreshments:	There are a number of opportunities to stop for refreshments, including Moor Mill, Kingsbury Mill and the many pubs and restaurants in Park Street and St Albans. The Abbey also has a cafeteria.

Route description

In the footsteps of a saint

The Alban Trail is based around the historical figure of Saint Alban, from whom the city takes its name. Alban lived in the third century, when Britain was occupied by the Romans. He was a Roman citizen, living in Verulamium, one of the most important towns in Roman Britain. Alban’s story is shrouded in the mists of time and it is difficult to tell fact from fiction. The following account has been pieced together from many sources.

Alban, like other Roman citizens, worshipped a number of different gods. At this time the Christian faith was outlawed and Christians were persecuted for their beliefs. Alban gave shelter to a priest (later known as Amphibalus) who was hiding from the Roman authorities. Alban was impressed by the priest’s teachings and himself became a Christian, his faith was to be put to the ultimate test, and his remarkable story begins at Chantry Island.

Chantry Island

According to legend Alban hoined the priest and other Christians at Chantry Island, a secluded wooded place by the River Colne, surrounded by a moat. The priest was betrayed to the authorities and Alban took his place, wearing his cloak, and was arrested. He was taken to the walled city of Verulamium for his trial.

The River Ver

After leaving the River Colne, the Alban Trail follows the course of the River Ver. The Ver is a chalk stream – a globally rare habitat supporting many rare plants and animals. It rises near Kensworth in the Chilterns Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and flows through Redbourn and St Albans to Bricket Wood, where it joins the Colne.

The chalk that underlies the Chiltern soaks up water like a sponge – it is called an aquifer. The groundwater in the aquifer feeds chalk streams like the Ver. Having been filtered through the chalk this water is pure and clear and it has provided an important source of water for people throughout history. Springs, wells and the river itself have all been used and the Ver Valley is rich in historical features.

Mills and watercress beds

The Ver Valley was a national centre for the watercress growing industry. There would once have been many working cress beds, the remains of which can still be seen. Eleven mills are known to have existed on the Ver, six of which can be seen today. Some of the mills were recorded in the Domesday Book of 1086, while others are much more recent. The trail passes four mills. Moor Mill, near the confluence of the rivers Ver and Colne, is thought to be 500 years old. The mill produced flour until shortly before the First World War. It is now a restaurant and public house and provides a pleasant refreshment stop on the trail. Park Street, New Barnes and Kingsbury mills can also be still seen along the route.

Verulamium

At Verulamium Park, the trail enters the location of the Roman town. Archaeological excavations have uncovered many Roman artefacts. Part of the city wall, the hypocaust (heating system) and theatre can still be seen. Verulamium Museum, in St Michael’s Street, contains a great deal of information and many artefacts demonstrating what life would have been like in Alban’s time.

Alban’s trial is though to have taken place in the basilica, which stood on the site now occupied by St Michael’s church. Alban refused to sacrifice to the traditional Roman gods and was sentenced to death. He was led across the river to a hill where he was executed.

St Michael’s Ford

This crossing on the River Ver has probably been in use for 2000 years. It is thought to be the place where Alban crossed the river when taken for execution. Throughout the middle ages the crossing would have been used by many pilgrims who came to visit Alban’s shrine, including Offa, King of Mercia who founded the Abbey in 793. the crossing has also witnessed more turbulent scenes; in 1381 the inhabitants of Redbourn probably used it to join the people of St Albans in the Peasant’s Revolt. During the War of the Roses the Lancastrian army crossed here before the second battle of St Albans on Bernards Heath in 1461. queen Elizabeth I may also have used the crossing when visiting Nicholas Bacon, her Lord Keeper of the Great Seal, who lived at Gorhambury House.

The present day bridge was substantially rebuilt in 1765 to accommodate the many horse drawn coaches that would have passed through St Michael’s village. The ford alongside the bridge was restored in 2001 through a project initiated by local residents.

Abbey and cathedral church of St Alban

The Abbey stands on a hillside, dominating the skyline and overlooking the city. This was once the site of a Roman cemetery and Alban’s body would probably have been brought here after his execution nearby. A Benedictine monastery was founded here by King Offa og Mercia in 793. the abbey church was then rebuilt by the Normans in the late 11th century and it has since been extended, altered and restored. The building contains Roman bricks, taken from the ruins of Verulamium.

St Alban’s Shrine

Alban’s shrine, in the Abbey, has been visited for 1700 years and would once have contained the saint’s bones. The date assigned to Alban’s death is 22nd June, and a Rose Service is held at the Abbey every year to honour the saint. Red roses are laid at the shrine. The Watching Chamber, near the shrine, is where the monks and townsmen kept guard over the shrine and the gifts left by the pilgrims. There is a solid oak frieze depicting the martyrdom.

The abbey also contains a shrine to Amphibalus, the priest whom Alban helped but who was later caught and executed by the Roman authorities.

Places to visit along the route

All Saints Pastoral Centre: You can visit the chapel and quadrangle in the pastoral centre.

Mills: Both Moor Mill and Kingsbury Mill are open to the public. Some of the mill machinery can still be seen.

Verulamium museum: an award winning museum with many artefacts from the Roman town, including mosaics and recreated rooms. The museum is open all year from 10am to 5:30pm Monday to Saturday and 2pm – 5:30pm on Sundays (last admissions 5pm).

The trail starts at All Saints Pastoral Centre. You can enter the building to visit the chapel and the quadrangle. T start the walk follow th track from the main entrance to Chantry Island, following the sign posts.
From Chantry Island where Alban’s story begins follow the track to Shenley Lane, turn left and walk along the pavement, cross over the River Colne and then turn left along the track past the farm.
after crossing above the railway line keep walking along the pavement through the industrial estate. Carefully cross Watling Street (a Roman road) and take the path almost opposite.
At Frogmore Pits follow the Ver Valley Walk waymarks. These markers will take you all the way to Verulamium. These former gravel workings now provide excellent habitats for wildlife including many water birds. Look out for kingfishers, herons, grebe and many kinds of duck.
When you get to Holywell Hill turn left and walk down the pedestrian crossing, then come back up and enter the park. Follow the river and carefully cross the road, then walk along beside the lake.
At the top of the large lake cross the bridge and follow the path out of the park towards the car park and Verulamium museum. Then follow St Michael’s Street, over the bridge, alongside the Roman ford, and past the restored 16th century Kingsbury Mill.
Turn right into Fishpool Street, head up the hill and carefully cross to the Abbey.

Rights of Way symbols you might see

	Yellow arrows indicate footpaths for pedestrian use only
	Blue arrows indicate bridleways for horse riders, cyclists and pedestrian use only
	Red arrows indicate Byways Open to All Traffic (BOAT) for horse riders, cyclists and pedestrians and may be legally used by other wheeled vehicles
	Black arrows indicate Roads Used as Public Paths (RUPP) for horse riders, cyclists and pedestrians and may be legally used by other wheeled vehicles

More about Rights of Way

Maps

This map is based on Ordnance Survey material with the permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of the controller of Her Majesty's Stationery Office © Crown copyright. Unauthorised reproduction infringes Crown copyright and may lead to prosecution or civil proceedings. Hertfordshire County Council 100019606 2004.

The Ordnance Survey mapping included within this web-site is provided by Hertfordshire County Council under licence from the Ordnance Survey in order to fulfill its public function to provide information relating to its activities, services and plans. Persons viewing this mapping should contact Ordnance Survey copyright for advice where they wish to license Ordnance survey mapping for their own use.

See the Ordnance Survey site for more information.

This is is one of a series of walks through the Chilterns Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) supported by the Chilterns Conference.

Please be considerate in the countryside - keep to footpaths, especially through crops, and leave farm gates as you find them.